Reviews

Michael Clark: The Fifes reinvention Tour

By David Ortmann
Originally appeared in PASSPORT magazine, October 2004

reˇinˇvenˇtion (noun)  Pronunciation: rE-&n-'ven(t)-sh&n
1 : to make as if for the first time something already invented <reinvent the wheel>
2 : to remake or redo completely
3 : to bring into use again

Reinvention should be familiar to us.  Our gay icons do it all the time.  Madonna's current Reinvention tour comes to mind, as the original Material Girl struts through two decades of song and physical incarnations.  Cher did it last year, covering four phenomenal decades, and eighteen completely different looks.  Before pop music there were films.  Joan Crawford, Marlene Dietrich, Bette Davis, gay icons all, chose multiple reinventions over the banality of retirement over the course of their six decade careers (seven decades in the case of Ms. Dietrich).

For those readers too young to recall the reinventions of our film grande dames, Cher or even Madonna, do not worry.  Britney, Christina, and Clay will all have their day.  Just wait.

We've even watched or favorite gay hot spots reinvent themselves-change names, owners and get facelifts, to change with the times and needs of their patrons.

I am at Fifes Guest Ranch in Sonoma County's beautiful Russian River.  Sitting on the deck of The Roadhouse, Fifes new restaurant, and overlooking a June sunset I am relaxing and listening Ella Fitzgerald, Frank Sinatra, and Etta James croon through the Ranch's sound system.  The fast paced world of San Francisco is just an hour drive, but it feels like a world away.  I haven't been to Fifes since 1999, and it has changed a great deal-and for the better.  I am enjoying the sunset, and Ella, with Michael Clark, the man responsible for Fifes reinvention.

Michael Clark is an unlikely mogul.  Slender, exceedingly handsome, and soft-spoken, he manages to look impeccably professional even in jeans and an oxford shirt.  He is articulate, loathe to criticize, and exhibits a reflective quality and a warmth uncommon in what we have come to think of as "businessmen."  But don't let the quiet demeanor fool you.  He is frighteningly intelligent, a fearless visionary, and has a strong work ethic rooted in his family's Sonoma County ancestry.

"I was born in Napa Valley, fourth generation.  I have a real love for this land."  Michael's great grandfather came from Italy and settled in the Valley in the 1880s.  "As a child, we had about 40 acres in vegetables and delivered to all the stores in Napa.  Even though I moved around quite a bit with my mother, I spent every summer working with my grandparents.  They instilled so many values in me."  He pauses.  "They were really wonderful people. are really wonderful people."

One of the major personal hurdles Michael overcame while reinventing Fifes was losing both his grandparents. "They died this past year, after seventy-two years of marriage.  They taught me about respecting the earth and nature, being kind to people, and never thinking you're better than anyone else.  They were good genuine people and I was blessed to have had them.  I saw them everyday or at least talked to them on the phone for the past twenty-something years.  How many grandchildren get to have that relationship with their grandparents?"

There were professional obstacles as well.  A regular at Fifes for almost twenty years, Michael decided to buy it one afternoon while lounging beside the pool. He had the deal set within in week.  The escrow period was long, however, and the transition was tough.  "I took over the resort three days before Labor Day weekend 2001.  It was crazy.  We had to restock every room top to bottom.  Three hundred people showed up the first night and we ended up with a very successful first season.  It was tough but it was worth it."

He attributes his strength to his work ethic and to family support, including that of his grandparents. "My family has never been anything but supportive of me, as a gay man or as a business man."  Even during his coming out process, Clark's family was there for him. Being an out gay man with an out gay business was not a problem for the Clark clan. "We're very close."

Also close to Michael is Princess, his four-year-old boxer.  Undoubtedly the queen of Fifes, Princess pops up everywhere, most often resting at Michael's feet.  "She definitely gives me a dirty look when she realizes I am leaving the house without her.  Luckily, she's well loved, and she comes almost everywhere with me."

Which is good for Princess because Michael still works a full six or seven days at Fifes, even though the resort is ready to run under the leadership of his sixty-five person staff.

Despite the changes, and perhaps because of them, Fifes is still the premier GLBT resort in the Russian River.  Preserving the traditional spirit of Fifes while making dramatic transformations has been a challenging balance to strike.  Drawing on his experience as interior designer Michael remodeled everything from landscaping to cabins, down to the luxury linens that now grace the beds.

"I wanted to keep the integrity of what Fifes always was."  Michael says.  And he has, despite the overhaul in the quality of services and hospitality offered.  The daytime energy of poolside frivolity reins, and the festive spirit continues into the night but with a classier almost European spa feeling, especially in The Roadhouse. Michael has added live music beside the pool on Saturday nights, providing exposure to local bands and has revamped The Bunkhouse into a dance club that rocks from 9pm until 2am under the masterful spinning of DJ Mike Michalski . And when you're all danced out, there is a huge bonfire in front of the Bunkhouse where you can sit, drink, and chat with friends. Of course, there will always be the bar activity on the strip, but it is possible to have a completely fulfilling day and night and never step foot off the Fifes grounds, which-to Clark's credit-is quite an achievement.

Since Clark's reinvention, the resort has attracted more women, as well as men of all shapes sizes, colors, and ages.  "We're getting nothing but compliments on the changes."  He says. There is such a rich, diverse culture in Sonoma County and at the River.  It's not just about the bars anymore.  I mean, you can do that, but there's also kayaking, wine-tasting, and good restaurants."

By now, our dinner has arrived and I understand why the Roadhouse has become the restaurant for all Sonoma.  The food is delicious, heartily-portioned, and artistically presented.  I feel as though I am dining in an art gallery.  The works of both local and internationally known artists decorate the walls.  The artwork changes every six weeks and is for sale.  Like showcasing the poolside bands, Clark supports the artistic endeavors of the locals and not-so-locals.  Clearly, building and sustaining a community is important to him.

Clark and his team sandblasted the entire restaurant of its old paint, including the limestone fireplace in the main dining room, which has been restored to its original 1905 glory.  Clean lines and blond wood predominate.  "It's bamboo," Clark offers a smile.  "I used bamboo because it reproduces itself in nature rather quickly."  The Roadhouse has an atmosphere of relaxed formality that continues into the bar (bamboo as well) where even more artwork is featured and crisp linens, candles, sparkling crystal and silverware invite.  This is the domain of Kate O'Reilly, Food and Beverage Manager, who is quick with a smile and takes pride in The Roadhouse's warm hospitality.

Michael planted vineyards on his Napa property about fifteen years ago, in addition to his cherry orchards, peaches, figs and fresh vegetables.  " I bring a lot of it to the resort for use in the restaurant." Food doesn't get any fresher than that, in fact all the ingredients used in The Roadhouse are all Sonoma grown.

A member of the Vineyards Association for the Russian River Valley, Clark is producing a 1991 Pinot Noir that will be released this summer under the "Fifes Guest Ranch" label.  Its release is timed perfectly with the Russian River Wine and Food show on September 26, 2003.  "It will be a wonderful event, a celebration of all Russian River wines, complimented by Sonoma County fresh produce and cheeses."

Following the release of the Pinot Noir, Clark will be releasing a rare Petit Verdot and is considering adding a tasting room at Fifes to encourage wine aficionados to stop in and enjoy the resort.

"The River is changing and growing.  People still come up for the day to enjoy the pool (no day charge).  "I want to encourage people to come from San Francisco and from the local community, and just enjoy it."  The new Fifes is a destination for the San Francisco day crowd, the wine tasting tourists, as well as business people in need of a place to prop up their feet.

"Fifes is a nice wine country destination for gay travelers, although we're recently getting a mixed clientele because they love the space.  They find it and they come back."  As for that unique touch on special occasions, Clark has been known to work with a local florist to scatter rose petals over the luxury lines in the cabins when lovers need that extra dose of romance.

All that's missing at Fifes is a full spa, which (not surprisingly) Clark is considering. "Of course we already have wonderful massage therapists but my dream is to offer a full service spa-facials, hair, massage. the works.  All the products would be local and organic."

Michael leans back and sips his wine-our empty plates a testimony to the delicious meal.  "I don't-cant-do it all by myself.  I have the best staff I could ever wish for."

Most of the staff has come by to greet Michael and me during dinner, a majority of them unaware that I am writing about them.  From chef Erik Nielsen to hostess Susan Hobbs-Reid to concierge manager CJ Kölb, everyone is warm and friendly.  It's clear they respect Michael, but there is no fear or sense of intimidation. His staff exudes a genuine warmth and affection for him, which he effortlessly returns.  He has the kind of grace and warmth rarely seen today.  It used to be called class and I am happy to see it's still around.

I ask him about his management style.  "If you take good care of people, they'll take good care of you."  That quote just about sums up Michael Clark and may be the strongest reason why he, and Fifes, will go on to even greater successes.
 
By now the night is dark and Michael and I are enjoying coffee (organic too) and dessert on the restaurant patio overlooking the pool, which is lit from within.  I smell the jasmine and honeysuckle while Judy Garland begins to sing "The Man That Got Away."  Michael and I look at one another and laugh.  What a perfect song to complete an evening is Russian River's gay and lesbian heaven. 

No more words are needed.